The effect of Greenwashing and how to avoid it

Greenwashing is defined as “to make people believe that your company is doing more to protect the environment than it really is” (https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/greenwash). This is done to attract customers. Business Wire writes that there is a “significant global paradigm shifts in how consumers view sustainability and the associated generational differences in willingness to pay for sustainable products and services,” (The Global Sustainability Study 2021 by Simon-Kucher & Partners).(https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20211014005090/en/Recent-Study-Reveals-More-Than-a-Third-of-Global-Consumers-Are-Willing-to-Pay-More-for-Sustainability-as-Demand-Grows-for-Environmentally-Friendly-Alternatives). This leads to a wish for companies to seem sustainable, even though they might not have the right or the knowledge to call themselves that. This leads to a gap between claims and truth. 

Greenwashing

“Research carried out in Europe found that 42% of green claims were exaggerated, false, or deceptive” Harvard Business Review (HBR) writes (2022) about a “sweep” of websites carried out by the European Commission and national consumer authorities. They found this:

  • In 37% of the cases included vague terms like “conscious” and “eco-friendly”
  • In 57% of the cases there was no easily accessible evidence to back up the claims that were made

(https://hbr.org/2022/07/how-greenwashing-affects-the-bottom-linehttps://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/ip_21_269)

HBR found that customers realize and are aware of the gap between the claims and actually actions enough to impact their satisfaction levels with the companies. This carries out to affect their relationship with the products and it affects the economy for the company in an impactful way. However, the customers “only care to a point.” If a company is seen as a high quality, innovative etc. brand, the satisfaction levels of the customers were unsignificantly affected even if the company was perceived as greenwashing. This result should, according to HBR, still be read with caution as a bigger or later research could show a greater effect.
(https://hbr.org/2022/07/how-greenwashing-affects-the-bottom-line)

How to avoid greenwashing, but still communicate sustainability

What HBR advices is that managers should pay equal attention towards their communicating their goals outwards and to their companies ability to achieve these. It is better as a company to promise something achievable and overachieve than the opposite. (https://hbr.org/2022/07/how-greenwashing-affects-the-bottom-line) This tactic can be seen in one of my previous posts about Northern Playground, and their communication outwards about how “no fashion is sustainable”. They still manage to communicate that their clothing is of the better alternatives if used right without risking a backlash for not being carbon neutral.

In addition to paying better attention to what is communicated outwards in statements, it can also be useful to use voluntary standards. E.g. EcoLabel Index (https://www.ecolabelindex.com) provides a vide variety of labels which can be used to legitimatize a companies claims. Here there is also room for mistakes, as many of the labels can be completely in-relevant or weak. Using recognizable and well known labels will likely give the best effect.

Avoiding greenwashing should be a high priority, but that doesn’t mean a company shouldn’t strive to reach high. As HBR writes it: “It may well be the case that they (ed. customers) are willing to forgive companies that tried and legitimately failed to implement their goals but customers might also be less forgiving towards those companies that attempted to cheat their way by exaggerating their credentials.” (https://hbr.org/2022/07/how-greenwashing-affects-the-bottom-line)

Challenges and opportunities ahead for sustainable design: pathways to better practices

The field of sustainable design has substantial obstacles, such as balancing competing goals for sustainability, usability, and price. These issues, however, give designers the opportunity to innovate and create solutions that are not just ecologically responsible, but also economically viable and user-friendly. Adoption of new technologies and materials, integration of circular systems, and usage of inclusive design principles may all be paths to better practices in sustainable design. Incorporating feedback from stakeholders such as manufacturers, suppliers, and end users can also help to advance sustainable design processes. Furthermore, education and training initiatives for designers, engineers, and product managers can assist promote knowledge of sustainable design concepts and practices. additionally:

Education and awareness: Many people are not aware of the environmental impact of their actions, and more education and awareness are needed to encourage sustainable behavior.

Accessibility and affordability: Sustainable products and services are not always accessible or affordable to all, particularly to low-income communities.

Standards and regulations: Standards and regulations are needed to ensure that sustainable products and services meet certain criteria and are properly labeled, making it easier for consumers to make informed choices.

Research and development: More research and development is needed to improve sustainable technologies and materials, and to make them more affordable and accessible.

Collaboration and partnerships: Collaboration and partnerships are needed to bring together different stakeholders, including industry, government, and civil society, to develop and implement sustainable solutions.

Incentives and disincentives: Incentives and disincentives, such as tax breaks for sustainable products and services, and penalties for unsustainable practices, can be used to encourage sustainable behavior.

Human-centered design: Human-centered design approaches that involve users and stakeholders in the design process can help to ensure that sustainable products and services meet the needs of people and are more likely to be adopted and used in sustainable ways.

Circular economy: Adopting a circular economy approach, where resources are kept in use for as long as possible, extracting the maximum value from them before recovering and regenerating products and materials at the end of each service life, can be an effective way to achieve a more sustainable future.

Innovation and creativity: Innovation and creativity are needed to develop new and exciting sustainable products and services, and to find new ways of addressing environmental challenges.

References

[1] Sustainable Design Challenge – SCARCE

[2] Global sustainability: the challenge ahead | Global Sustainability | Cambridge Core

[3] Achieving a sustainable future in consumer goods | McKinsey

[4] Challenges and Opportunities for Indigenous Peoples’ Sustainability | DISD

[5] What’s On | News | RIAI.ie (The Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland)

Design philosophies of Northern Playground and H&M Group

In this blog I will look into two design philosophies from two very different companies. What are the benefits of these strategies, and what are the challenges?

Northern Playground, “Our job is to make it easier and more fun to own less.”

Two main principles:

  • Duration (physical and non-physical)
  • Multi functionality (for all occasions and adventures)

Looks and functionality:

Northern Playground mainly uses one design strategy. This is designing with simple designs, multi functionality and keep-worthiness. Their design process is slow and never puts looks over functionality. Northern Playground never launch something new unless they belive it fills a hole in their collection and that it will stay a classic “forever.”

Quality:

The clothes from Northern Playground should have long lifetime and high quality through repairability, less chemicals, needing less washing and designing the garment first and then setting an appropriate price. The clothes should also be possible to recycle.

Supply chains:

Employees in their supply chain should have more than a living wage. They should have good lives and good working conditions. In addition there is full transparency in who Northern Playground partner with.

Read more:

Read more about Northern Playgrounds design strategy here: https://www.northernplayground.no/en/content/design-philosophy, and more about their buisness models, processes etc. here: https://www.northernplayground.no/en/environment

H&M Group, “…guide to designing more circular products.”

Three pillars, designing products to be:

  • used more
  • made to be made again
  • made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs

Looks and functionality:

According to H&M Group’s “Circulator Guide” they try to place each product in a “Frequency and Lifespan” diagram before they decide on materials etc. The default before they as themselves a few questions is wear monthly and lasting for 3 years. This is not particualary ambitious.

If we wear 6 garments (pants, undershirt, shirt, sweater, jacket + underwear/socks etc.) every day, one new outfit every day in the month, for 12 months a year that would mean you would have to buy and toss 2160 garments in 3 years. This is excluding pyjamas, home wear, workout clothes etc. If most of these clothes are then placed in H&M Group’s “Mid” category they are not that designed well for recyclability, and most will end up outside of that system anyways as recycling clothes is a very overwhelmed industry.

Quality

H&M Group has a different approach than Northern Playground when it comes to the quality of their clothes. They argue that clothes which are designed for being in the “Extensive” product category should have physical and some non-physical (eg. lovability) durability. However, products in the “Mid” and “Light” category should NOT be designed for durability, but rather recyclability. They at best put medium pressure on repairability and avoiding waste.

Supply chains:

Ad H&M Group is a giant in fashion is hard to get the overview of all the suppliers and working conditions. They are part of the Transparency Pledge.

Read more:

Design strategy of H&M Group: https://hmgroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Circulator_Guide_v1.0.pdf

What to take from this?

  • Northern Playground is designing for “timelessness,” but will probably struggle to target people who want to express themselves through fashion with their muted colors and simple silhouettes.
  • Northern Playground designs every piece in the same spirit. This leads to transparency and trust for the customer
  • H&M Group design with different strategies for how to reduce the overall environmental impact. For as long as we produce clothes ment to only last a short while this is probably a good thing as it reduces emissions. ““Focusing on developing all products to be more durable could potentially lead to us using more resources than a garment requires.” However, this makes it more unclear for the customer what type of garment they are buying. It also drives prices down which lead to overconsumption.

Precedent study of Northern Playground

In this post I will study how Northern Playground, a small clothing company, makes their production and business as little un-sustainable as possible. They belive no clothing company can be fully sustainable, but of course they can be better or worse. This is how they try to be better:

“Sustainable materials do not exist. Period.” This is how the text starts if you make two simple clicks (Menu > Environment) on the webpage of Northern Playground. This is surprisingly honest when we have gotten used to green labels with “Conscious” written all over on fast fashion giant H&M and many more. Northern Playground is a Norwegian company who is trying to change the textile industry in a way that has real impact.

One click on the menu button and Products and Environment is the equal size.

In the beginning of the company’s life Jo Egil Tobiassen, the brain behind it, thought sustainability was complicated, he tells E24. However, after educating himself he found that it isn’t “how” we produce clothing that is the main issue, it is “how much.” But if his company wants to have a real impact, they also need to grow. This is a real paradox for small, “sustaiable” brands. Tobiassen explains that one way they are doing this is avoiding sale and avoiding middle men. This way the earn more on fewer articles on clothing. (https://e24.no/det-groenne-skiftet/i/8Qkd4r/klesgrunderen-som-vil-at-du-skal-kjoepe-mindre-vil-vokse-mer)

Reducing clothing consumption

Lifetime service: Repairs are made easy by providing knowledge and tools to repair the garment yourself or it can be executed for free by the company. Northern Playground also takes care of recycling when the garment is truly worn out. Producing in only wool makes recycling much easier as this is a highly recyclable material. (https://www.northernplayground.no/en/lifetime-service)

Their business model includes the users: Northern Playground was tired of the guessing game most companies do when deciding on product design and the amount to produce. This leads to massive overproduction, and never-used garments ends at landfills. Northern Playground have developed a big user group who they get feedback from in the design, testing and decision phase. (https://www.northernplayground.no/en/content/our-model)

A clothing company requesting environmental tax: In addition to having put a self-imposed environmental tax on themself (to spend on repairing etc.) Northern Playground is also working part politically to request for an environment tax to be put in place in Norway. (https://www.northernplayground.no/en/content/letter-to-the-government-4https://www.northernplayground.no/en/content/environmental-tax)

Slow fashion: Producing classic designs who lasts a long time and not releasing a new collection just because a new session arrived keeps the new for bying new things all the time down. Of course this is easier for a company producing wool garments to be used as basics. However, Northern Playground is actively working for owning garments who can serve multiple purposes to become a more accepted standard. (https://www.northernplayground.no/en/content/we-dont-need-collections)

In addition Northern Playground has an open communication about overconsumption as a problem, avoids discounts and design for high quality as a priority over low prices.

Reducing their footprint

Norther Playground of course design for reducing the enviornmental impact from each garment in other ways than ensuring a long lifetime for each garment. They also:

– produce partially (very) locally in Oslo, partially in Europe (at the only manufacturer in the world who fulfills Greenpeace’s environmental standards
– only use (partially organic) natural materials
– use recyclable packaging and no plastic
– ensure a sustainable culture among employees
– believes in and acts with transparency
(https://www.northernplayground.no/en/environment)

Human-centered approaches to sustainable future and roles of technology in sustainability.

Human-centered approaches to sustainable design are concerned with developing products, services, and systems that meet people’s needs while simultaneously protecting the environment. This approach highlights the necessity of incorporating users and stakeholders in the design process to ensure that solutions are personalized to their individual needs and are more likely to be adopted and used in long-term ways. As such we must:

  • Highlight the significance of user research by conducting research to better understand user needs, behaviors, and preferences, and then utilize this knowledge to build more sustainable products and services.
  • Involve users and other stakeholders in the design process, and encourage collaboration and co-creation to produce new ideas and solutions.
  • Design for behavior change using design to encourage sustainable behaviors, such as reducing water usage or conserving energy.
  • Make sustainability accessible and understandable by making sustainability accessible and intelligible to consumers by using clear and straightforward language, images, and other design components.
  • Make sustainability appealing with the use of design to make sustainable products and services appealing to customers rather than being regarded as a burden.
  • Prioritize accessibility and inclusivity while ensuring that sustainable products and services are accessible and inclusive, taking into account the requirements of various groups, such as people with disabilities and those living in low-income neighborhoods.
  • Continuously assess and improve: Based on feedback from users and other stakeholders, continuously analyze and improve sustainable products and services, and adapt tactics accordingly.

In the process of personalizing solutions, one may argue that we are less concerned with the user and more interested in implementing the next technological innovation. The point is that we must incorporate a human-centered approach into the technologies we are implementing. This raises the question of the role of technology in sustainability.

The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) are the world’s common plan to end extreme poverty, decrease inequality, and safeguard the planet by 2030, according to the UN. Every country must provide its necessities for work, food, energy, water, and sanitation. Everyone has the right to live in a healthy, safe, and clean environment. This is easily accomplished by lowering pollution, poverty, and unemployment.

Technology’s role in sustainable development is to assist companies in achieving net-zero and other environmental, social, and governance goals. Leading companies are already using technological accelerators to achieve their environmental goals.

The impact of technology on the environment and society is considered in sustainable development. We must investigate how new technologies might contribute to more ecological, economic, and social sustainability.

Without a question, most countries strive to adhere to the objectives of sustainable development. In essence, this means not only maintaining future generations’ growth potential but also promoting social justice inside and between nationals, as well as within national borders.

Concentrating on ecologically beneficial forms of production and consumption, for example, could help address forward-looking studies on the effects of digitalization, climate protection, and energy system transformation. In the realm of higher education, we should strive to employ technology to bridge the gap between technological progress and social implications.

To begin with, sustainability cannot be “mandated” or regarded until the finished technology is established. Rather, fundamental sustainability concepts must be incorporated as early as feasible in the development of new technologies to extend the research perspective of technology assessment [1].

This strategy is intended to produce technical solutions that contribute to societal sustainable development through the application of sustainable design principles while also addressing how to improve the sustainability of innovation processes and how to share technological breakthroughs in a sustainable manner.

Sustainable design as an approach includes environmental, social, and economic issues to develop ecologically responsible and resource-efficient goods, buildings, and infrastructure throughout their existence. Green roofs, solar panels, rainwater harvesting, natural ventilation, and energy-efficient lighting are examples of such features. It can also include the use of sustainable materials and the incorporation of natural aspects such as green spaces and natural light into the design. Sustainable design can help to reduce the environmental effect of buildings and infrastructure, improve occupant health and well-being, and make communities more livable and resilient.

 All those examples are also often referred to as technology. That is the main reason why we need to find a way to make it easy to transfer technology wherever there are needed. Technology is crucial to sustainability because it allows for the development and implementation of more efficient and environmentally friendly products, processes, and systems. Here are a few examples:

  • Renewable energy technologies, such as solar and wind power, can reduce reliance on fossil fuels while also lowering greenhouse gas emissions.
  • Smart grid systems, can improve energy efficiency and reduce waste by allowing for better management and distribution of electricity.
  • Energy-efficient building technologies, such as LED lighting and smart thermostats, can reduce energy consumption and lower emissions. Energy-efficient LED lighting is quickly replacing traditional incandescent bulbs in American homes and is expected to achieve 84 percent market share by 203[2].
  • Electric vehicles, can reduce dependence on fossil fuels and decrease air pollution.
  • Water treatment and conservation technologies can help to reduce water waste and improve water quality.
  • Precision farming, for example, is a sustainable agricultural technology that can enhance crop yields while using less water and other resources.
  • Industrial recycling and waste management technologies can help to reduce waste and pollution.

Technology can help achieve sustainability by increasing efficiency, lowering resource consumption, and limiting environmental effects.

Photo by Nuno Marques on Unsplash

Technology can play a critical role in helping to create a more sustainable future for all by enabling the development and implementation of more efficient and environmentally friendly products, processes, and systems. Some ways that technology can help to sustain a better future for all include:

  • Increasing energy efficiency and the use of renewable energy sources: as we mentioned earlier, technologies such as smart grid systems, energy storage, and renewable energy systems can help to reduce dependence on fossil fuels and decrease greenhouse gas emissions.
  • Improving water and waste management: Technologies such as water treatment and conservation systems, and industrial recycling and waste management can help to reduce water waste and pollution and improve the overall sustainability of our communities.
  • Enabling sustainable transportation: Electric vehicles, bike-sharing systems, and public transportation systems powered by renewable energy can help to reduce emissions and improve air quality.
  • Advancing sustainable agriculture: Technologies such as precision farming, precision irrigation, and crop monitoring systems can help to increase crop yields, reduce water use and improve the overall sustainability of agriculture.
  • Supporting sustainable design and building: Technologies such as Building Information Modelling (BIM), smart building systems, and sustainable materials can help to reduce the environmental impact of buildings and infrastructure, and improve the health and well-being of occupants.
  • Facilitating sustainable communities: Technologies such as smart city systems and sustainable urban planning tools can help to create more livable and resilient communities.
  • Encouraging sustainable consumption: Technologies such as product tracking and transparency, and e-commerce platforms can help to increase the transparency of products and enable consumers to make more sustainable choices.

By utilizing technology, we can create more efficient, sustainable systems and reduce the negative impact of human activities on the environment, which in turn will lead to a better future for all.

Technology has had a profound impact on society and the environment. On the one hand, technology has permitted many breakthroughs that have enhanced people’s quality of life around the world, such as improved communication, transportation, and information access. On the other hand, technology has exacerbated several environmental issues, including pollution, climate change, and resource depletion.

Environmental impact: The manufacture and disposal of technological items can have a major environmental impact. For example, mining minerals for electronic devices can devastate habitats, and disposing of outdated electronics can result in harmful pollution. Additionally, technology products often require large amounts of energy to operate, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change.

Social impact: technology can have both positive and harmful effects on society. On the one hand, technology has the potential to connect people, encourage education, and improve information access. Technology, on the other side, can lead to social isolation, addiction, and the propagation of misinformation. Furthermore, because access to technology is not always equitable, technology can worsen societal inequities.

Economic impact: Technology has the potential to have a substantial economic influence. For example, it may result in employment displacement and automation, but it may also result in the creation of new jobs and possibilities. It can also contribute to increased economic growth and productivity.

Political impact: Technology has the potential to have a huge impact on politics. It can, for example, increase citizen engagement and participation in the political process, but it can also be used to disseminate misinformation and propaganda, undermining democracy.

As you would have understood technology has the potential to be a strong force for good, but it is critical to be aware of its negative consequences and to use technology responsibly, in a way that is sustainable for the environment and society.

Overall, A human-centered approach to sustainability prioritizes addressing the needs of current and future generations while safeguarding the planet’s natural resources. This strategy considers the social, economic, and environmental elements that influence people’s well-being and attempts to balance them in an equitable and sustainable manner.

Through a human-centered approach, technology plays a key role in attaining sustainability. It can help to improve energy efficiency, minimize waste, and increase natural resource production. Renewable energy sources such as solar and wind power, for example, can help to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and dependence on fossil fuels. Smart building technologies can also enhance energy efficiency and lessen a building’s environmental effects. Digital technologies like the Internet of Things (IoT) and big data analytics can also be utilized to improve resource consumption and eliminate waste.

It is crucial to highlight, however, that technology is not a panacea for sustainability challenges. A human-centered approach also addresses technology’s social and economic ramifications, ensuring that it serves all members of society. Furthermore, technology should be implemented in a manner that respects human rights and promotes social fairness.

How does technology help a human-centered approach to achieve sustainability goals with design?

Technology can help a human-centered approach to achieve sustainability goals through design in several ways:

  • Designing for efficiency: Technology can be leveraged to create more energy and resource-efficient goods, buildings, and systems. Building information modeling (BIM), for example, can assist architects and engineers in designing buildings that are more energy-efficient and have a smaller environmental imprint.
  • Adaptability design: Technology can also be utilized to create systems that are more flexible to changing conditions. Smart building technology, for example, can be used to monitor and modify heating, cooling, and lighting systems in response to weather and occupancy changes.
  • Designing for engagement: Technology can be leveraged to create more engaging and interactive systems for users. The Internet of Things (IoT), for example, can be used to create buildings that provide real-time information on energy usage and resource use, which can assist drive people to save resources.
  • Designing for community: Technology can be utilized to create more inclusive and engaging systems for communities. Using digital platforms, for example, can help to improve community interaction and participation in the design and planning of sustainable activities.
  • Monitoring design: Technology can be utilized to create systems that monitor and track the performance of sustainable systems. Sensor networks and data analytics, for example, can be used to track and assess the environmental performance of buildings, transit systems, and other infrastructure.

It is vital to stress that technology should be utilized in a way that respects human rights and promotes social fairness, and it should be incorporated into a design process that includes all stakeholders, where all perspectives are heard and considered in the design process.

As we are discussing humans and their interactions with technology. This gave rise to another component of design known as UX (or User Experience design). The question then becomes, How Can UX Make Products More Sustainable? By examining the whole lifecycle of a product, from its design and development to its usage and disposal, UX design may make goods more sustainable. This involves choosing environmentally friendly materials, designing products that are simple to repair and upgrade, and developing interfaces that encourage energy-efficient usage. Furthermore, UX designers can create goods that are intended to be reused or recycled rather than being discarded. Overall, the purpose of sustainable UX design is to produce products that are both practical and eco-friendly.

References

[1] https://www.oeaw.ac.at/en/ita/topics/sustainability-and-technology

[2] https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/sustainability/our-insights/sustainability-blog/these-9-technological-innovations-will-shape-the-sustainability-agenda-in-2019

[3] https://ied.eu/blog/7-green-technologies-for-a-sustainable-future/

[4] https://ro.uow.edu.au/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1049&context=artspapers

[5] https://www.ipi-singapore.org/tech-offers

Little progress among the giants largely because of lack of accountability and poor-quality data

This and the previous blog post are looking into two major reports about the state of sustainability in the fashion world. “The Business of Fashion Index 2022” is looking at the 30 largest companies in fashion and how they are doing over a variety of fields of sustainability.

“The Business of Fashion Index 2022” by The Business of Fashion

The Business of Fashion Index 2022 “examine the performance of the industry’s 30 largest publicly traded companies by revenue across three market segments: luxury, sportswear and high street (ed. ordinary clothes).” Although the original 15 companies from the last years report had some progress, this was “eclipsed” by the new additions’ inaction.

Business of Fashion (BoF) points at “limited accountability within the sector, poor-quality data and a lack of investment“ as some of the biggest obstacles. This is very clear when BoF writes that “some of the industry’s biggest players — including URBN, Skechers, Fila Holdings, Anta and HLA Group — provided little or no public detail about plans to tackle their environmental and social impact.”

Although this is quite dark, there are also positive news. Fast retailing had the biggest improvement (of 11 points) from last years report, showing some of the “technological innovation, policy cues and standardised reporting frameworks” in action. If the fashion industry can do more of this, if can lead to real change.

”The Index assesses companies’ progress towards ambitious 2030 goals across six impact categories: Transparency, Emissions, Water & Chemicals, Waste, Materials and Workers’ Rights.”

As we see in the figure, waste is one of the areas that has the lowest score overall. This is something “very easy” to work on by not overproducing (resulting in landfill material before it has even been in the store) and to use scrap products and cuttings in a mindful way. Transparency is also something that is also obvious to focus on as a smaller company as this is one of the advantages of being smaller.

For me it would be interesting to read the full report (behind a paywall) as a designer to make sure that I follow the parameters given by BoF. To take part in the politics of fashion would also be an impactful way of taking part of this world.

Source:

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/widespread-inaction-on-sustainability-eclipses-progress-at-fashions-biggest-companies/

The richest are both the problem and the solution

As I have gotten more into the topic of the sustainability of fashion, I have found some interesting reports with different takes. This and the next blogpost will summarize and highlight some of the most important finds of two reports. I will also mention how I can use these finds further on.

“Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable” by Hot or Cool

Hot or Cool’s report “Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable” showes the divide in consumption between high and low income countries and people. They found that “the richest 20% in the UK emit 83% above the 1.5-target.” At the same time, “74% of people in Indonesia live below sufficiency consumption levels of fashion.” On average the fashion footprint need to be reduced by 2030 by 60% among the high income countries of G20, 40% by the upper-middle income countries while the low income countries are already below the 1.5-degree limit. This divide between high and low income is both clear between countries and within countries.

Within a representative sampling of G20 countries they found that the lowest and second to lowest income quintile is responsible for respectively 6-11% and 10-13%. The second to highest and highest on the other hand is responsible for respectively 24-26% and 36-42%. In simpler words: “On average, the fashion consumption of the richest 20% causes 20 times higher emissions than that of the poorest 20%. This ratio varies substantially across countries, following levels of income inequality.” This debunks the idea that the poor is responsible for the emission because they by “cheap” clothes. They often get blamed in discussion about the emissions of fashion, but it is time that the rich scale down on their consumption.

As reducing the number of purchases of new clothes much (respectively 4 and 3 times) more effective than increasing the use time or (what is considered achievable through) decarbonization of the fashion industry, this should be the focus. (https://hotorcool.org/unfit-unfair-unfashionable/)

Consumtion/emission with no action taken and a sufficient scenario
Consumption within countries differs very much relating to income level

In a way this is positive news. Reducing the amount of garments of high income people is a task possible to asses for small companies. This can be done by producing high quality, interesting and lovable pieces that can play many parts in a person’s wardrobe. If we can produce such pieces they can replace the feeling if need of new pieces. The other end, producing lower-emission garments for persons with low income, is a much more complex task. This needs to be assessed by the fast fashion companies and the fashion culture itself. This also needs to be done, but it won’t be as effective as changing the behavior of high income persons.

Another interesting find to consider is that in the UK, Italy and Germany the richest 20% need to reduce their footprint of fashion consumption by respectively 83%, 75% and 75%. However, in the fashion nation France this number is substantially lower, “only” 50% (https://hotorcool.org/unfit-unfair-unfashionable/). This point to the issue that fashion consumption is highly dependent on culture. “French women” is a trademark in fashion, known and praised for using fewer, versatile and timeless pieces instead of indulging in micro and fast trends.

Source:
https://hotorcool.org/unfit-unfair-unfashionable/

Full report:
https://hotorcool.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/Hot_or_Cool_1_5_fashion_report_.pdf

The Benefits of Sustainable Design and some case studies of successful Sustainable Design

We hope that by this point you are beginning to understand how important it is to include sustainability ideas in design. We must keep in mind that sustainability is a concept that may be utilized in almost all facets of daily life. Its core objective would encompass securing better alternatives in face of disaster or unprecedented damages but also serve as a guarantee that we can have a better life today and our children will still stand a chance to benefit from the same innovations. When applied to the design of everyday things and services, sustainability makes what we can call in that context sustainable design. And sustainable design has lots of benefits and advantages. we want to walk you through some of the successful sustainable designs we read.

Since the rise of sustainable design, designers have been asserting that sustainability has a much stronger case than just environmental reasons: There is also a viable economic argument for designing buildings with environmental benefits [1].

Even when no formal certification is sought, sustainability is baked into most new commercial and multifamily housing projects, but when it is (and competitors are in the field) the certification of choice for many developers is still U.S. Green Building Councils Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design.

Diana Mosher studies some sustainable designs relating to housing. One example of a sustainable building she wrote about is the University of California Irvine’s NET-ZERO HOUSING. The University of California (UC) is well-known for its dedication to sustainability, particularly since the implementation of its carbon-neutral policy. When Plaza Verde student housing debuted in September 2019, the net-zero project (which is still pending final LEED Platinum certification) was hailed as the greenest housing complex in the entire UC system by the Provost.

Plaza Verde features an all-electric system that eliminates the need for natural gas and employs cutting-edge technologies such as heat pump water heaters and an electric outdoor grill system, among other energy-saving equipment. “We soon decided that because natural gas is a nonrenewable energy source, this building would not have any natural gas service,” Kasdan added. A central boiler system is a common energy-efficient technique for providing hot water in large buildings, but there is currently no electric boiler system that can serve a building of this size. As a result, each apartment received its own electric water heater and heat pump.

The sustainability of Plaza Verde extends beyond building and into operations and resident behavior. Ceiling fans improve the facility’s comfort and efficiency while lowering the campus’s overall energy consumption. Water-saving plumbing fixtures contribute to significant reductions in potable water consumption. Students are also encouraged to use alternate modes of transportation; bike storage holds over 760 bikes, and the Irvine site provides access to many public transportation lines as well as near walking proximity to community facilities.

David Lancor, AIA, LEED AP BD+C, is an architect and associate principal with Clark Nexsen. He conducted a case study with the redesign of Rhodedes Hall, UNC Asheville’s 1950s Academic Building, Rhodedes Hall, UNC Asheville’s 1950s Academic Building, serves as a case study of the economic value of sustainable design: it achieved an annual 46.8 percent decrease in energy use and a nearly 25 percent decrease in energy costs.

The findings from the research presented help the design community to implement strategies that not only achieve the building energy-savings goals, but also address occupants’ needs regarding comfort and utilization of the space, creating a total system of efficiency for users and building managers, and thereby achieving all three components of sustainability: reductions in environmental impacts, increased societal outcomes, and lowered financial costs [2].

The design team was able to find the most cost-effective alternative for the project by conducting a comparative life cycle cost study of different grades of glazing and their impact on the tonnage required for the mechanical system. This option provided immediate cost savings while also saving the owner money over the life of the building.

Water-efficiency techniques in green buildings help to reduce water use by encouraging stormwater capture and the use of non-potable sources.

One of the biggest benefits of green buildings is the lower cost of upkeep: With specifically engineered design elements helping reduce power and water bills, these energy-efficient structures can save the business and residential owners a bundle. All these categories can benefit from having a building certified as Green and increasing operating efficiencies. In addition to UNC Asheville’s interest in reduced operational costs and energy use, UNC Asheville values water management and conservation, making reducing water usage central to our design process [2].

It is already common knowledge that placing a green roof on a building helps to reduce energy use, absorb runoff, and combat air pollution. Green roofing benefits go beyond aesthetics, from reduced stormwater runoff and urban dust to energy-efficient cooling.

It is important to stipulate here that ecological design does not address the core issue of whether the product is needed within the context of total sustainability. Designing for reusability and recyclability is generally seen as an easier choice where increasing energy efficiency or decreasing emissions might lead to fewer environmental impacts (Goggin and Dewberry, 1997).

Andrew Sadler, a renewable energy specialist, presents seven criteria for sustainable construction. Principles that we believe are important to mention. Constructions certainly have consequential impacts on the environment. They are accounted to be causing 45% of total UK carbon emissions for example. To ensure that building projects are as sustainable as feasible, environmental factors such as the 7 principles of sustainable construction must be considered from the very beginning of the construction process. The seven principles of sustainable construction proposed by Andrew Sadler are a technique for contributing to a better built environment while reducing our overall carbon footprint. They cover areas like sustainable design, durability, energy efficiency, waste reduction, indoor air quality, water conservation, sustainable building materials.

To sum Andrew Sadler’s 7 principles up, we can say that :

  • The early planning and design of a building have a significant impact on lowering energy consumption and pollution. The earlier you incorporate sustainable construction into your design, the more sustainable the building will be.
  • Referring to durability, the astonishing antiquity of Austrian structures demonstrates the longevity of construction materials. These structures are excellent examples of how to construct modern, sustainable structures.
  • Increasing energy efficiency will help you save money by cutting fuel usage, which reduces CO2 emissions. This allows us to reduce our contribution to climate change.
  • Improving the energy efficiency of technology has the potential to drastically cut energy usage and emissions. Switching to environmentally friendly energy technology will transform your sources into services such as illumination, transportation, and heat.
  • Developers can now choose from a wide range of energy-efficient building materials. Insulating concrete forms, low-emissivity windows, structural insulated panels, and many other materials are available.
  • To be successful, you must execute your goal of producing an energy-efficient building throughout the concept/design stage.
  • Bad air quality, which is often produced by indoor pollution that emits dangerous particles, can have a severe impact on interior settings and people’s health.
  • Water is becoming an increasingly valuable resource, with pollution and climate change having a significant impact on freshwater supplies. You can recall this in the case study with the redesign of Rhodedes Hall, UNC Asheville’s 1950s Academic Building, Rhodedes Hall, UNC Asheville’s 1950s Academic Building where the designers made reducing water usage central to their design process and it worked. And finally, sustainable materials can be explained as materials that have no direct impact on the environment and do not use non-renewable resources

We would also like you to read and explore sustainable design projects. We have found a non-exhaustive list of 30 Sustainable Projects Leading the Way for Green Design published by Interior Design.

We also suggest having a look at the top 10 eco-friendly design trends of 2022 published by Srishti Mitra, a junior editor and a social media marketer at Yanko Design.

References

[1]https://mydigitalpublication.com/article/Case+Studies+in+Sustainable+Design/3571123/643960/article.html

[2] https://www.clarknexsen.com/blog-case-study-on-the-economic-value-of-sustainable-design  

[3] https://interiordesign.net/projects/25-sustainable-projects-leading-the-way-for-green-design/

[4] https://www.intechopen.com

[5] https://www.yankodesign.com/2022/02/17/top-10-eco-friendly-design-trends-of-2022/

Why design outerwear?

In this post I will clarify and define my own motivations going into this project. It will be useful for me by checking with this post during the process to see if I am true to my own passions and wishes. As mentioned in the previous blog post I wish to research if designing “yet another clothing piece” can ever be called ethical and sustainable. This is because I have a personal wish to design outerwear that is flexible in use, comfortable and seen as something fun instead of something dreadful.

Since I was little I have been fascinated with clothing and how it affects us. When choosing a direction of study, I chose to not study fashion/textile because I could not see a way I could get into that industry with my ethics and sustainable responsibility. Now I find myself constantly “gliding towards” wanting to get into the designing and production of clothing, but being conflicted by the sustainable matter.

I have two main issues to address if I want to get into the clothing industry:
– how can I design clothing with a clear conscience regarding the climate crisis?
– how can I, as an industrial/interaction designer, contribute in the “fashion world” without a fashion degree?

I need an answer or at least an indication of something positive in these questions before I get into the actual designing of clothing. These questions will therefore be focused on by me in first phase of this project. To find answers I will look into similar phenomenons to see if I can draw any parallel lines.

Eventually I can also look into more specific ways to design clothing in more sustainable ways and how I as a non-fashion designer can help in these aspects.

The need for sustainability and the role of interaction design and designers in the process

The research area of interaction design is concerned with how humans use technology. It can be applied to develop more sustainable, effective, and user-friendly systems. Utilizing interface design to develop long-term solutions has gained more attention in recent years.

As the globe grows more interconnected, it is crucial to think about how our actions affect the environment. In other words, there is a need for rethinking existing systems to equitably meet the needs of a growing global population while ensuring future environmental viability is a critical task for today’s society [1]. To achieve sustainable development, we must satisfy the requirements of the present without sacrificing the needs of the planet. Meeting current requirements without sacrificing the capacity of future generations to meet their own demands is necessary for sustainable development. This entails developing systems that are socially just, environmentally friendly [2], and commercially viable.

A vital part in achieving sustainable development goals can be played by interaction design. For instance, we may entice individuals to use public transportation instead of private vehicles by creating user-friendly interfaces. We can also help consumers conserve money and the environment by creating apps that encourage users to use less energy. Since sustainable design focuses on creating the future rather than just a structure, Sustainability is both a process and a product issue. Understanding design as a process enables designers to assess and foresee the financial, social, and economic consequences of building things more accurately [3].

Although designing for sustainability has many difficulties, it is a significant and rewarding field of employment. We can create solutions that will actually change the world in which we live with careful preparation and imagination.

To argue that our future is full of ambiguity and that there are few certainties about how we will live in the future is an understatement. However, there has never been a more crucial time to plan for a more sustainable future for people. That’s why creating an effective interaction design process for a more sustainable future should be taken seriously.

Interaction design will fully fulfill its goal which is to give users a positive experience while fostering connections with the digital environment. When designing with this concept in mind, one must concentrate on giving each element of their experience, including the surroundings, meaning. Designers must comprehend all the components of sustainability, from renewable energy sources to water conservation methods, in order to efficiently do this, and use those resources to develop practical solutions.

Empathy, which involves comprehending users’ needs and responding to them in a way that makes sense to them, is at the core of any successful interaction design process. To make sure their ideas are both usable and practical in the long run, designers must take into account the types of technology people currently have access to as well as those they may have in the future.

Designers must concentrate on developing strategies for progressively delivering improved user experiences after they have a clear grasp of the people they are trying to assist. To do this, fresh creative ideas can be informed by data gathered from numerous touchpoints across various platforms. This enables us to anticipate changing technological trends and ensures that our ideas will still be useful in the future.

When developing interaction design methodologies for a sustainable future, designers may equip people all over the world with resources that change the world by taking into account all these variables. Interactive designs can act as catalysts for social transformation by granting everyone access to the knowledge they need to pursue their aspirations and create a brighter future together, whether it be through the creation of opportunities for education or the provision of resources for food production.

References:

[1] Design For Sustainable Development (cambridge.org)

[2] Sustainable design: What it is, why it matters, and how you can get started – Article (intuit.com)

[3] Sustainable Design Is About Building the Future, Not Just a Structure (greenbuildingsolutions.org)

[4] Design for Sustainability: An Introduction | SpringerLink

[5] Guide to Sustainable Product Design: A Sustainability Roadmap for Manufacturers | PTC